Discover the history of mezcal, a typical Mexican beverage. Also find out the numerous types of mezcal
The process of distillation, a legacy from the Spanish and Europeans, thanks to the Arabs, was introduced to Mexico in the 16th century. It spread in the 17th century and became common in the 18th century. That's when distilled alcohols began to be manufactured and consumed in Mexico. Mezcal, aguardiente, and tequila belong to this category.
Oaxaca, the land of mezcal
Mezcal is produced in almost every place in Mexico where there are agaves. The mezcales from the north and those from Oaxaca are famous. In fact, Santiago Matatlán in Oaxaca is considered the mezcal capital of the world. From this impressive region comes the young artisanal mezcal "As de Piedra", which has a subtle smoky aroma and an extraordinary balance between minerals, wood, and cooked agave, with fine herbaceous details. The agave matures for three years and is traditionally cooked in a stone oven with ocote, mesquite, and ground oak. Undoubtedly, an ancestral tradition worth savoring.
The myth
Mezcal, though it came after pulque, also has its myth: a lightning bolt striking an agave plant was said to be the first 'tatema,' which is why it's considered the drink sent from the heavens. To make mezcal, the leaves and roots are roasted in wood-fired or gas ovens or like barbacoa, buried in the ground. In markets, you can find roasted agave leaves for sale. The indigenous Apache mezcaleros get their name because these roasted agave leaves, precisely, without fermentation, were an essential part of their diet.
The different types of mezcal depend on the type of agave, climate, distillation technique, and the container in which it's left to rest. Comiteco from Chiapas, bacanora from Sonora, raicilla and barranca from Jalisco and Nayarit, tuxca or quitupán from Colima, and even tequila are all variations of mezcal.
Customs and Traditions
Mezcal, like many other alcoholic beverages, was born not only close to ceremonies and celebrations but also close to remedies and medicine. In traditional medicine, mezcal, like sugarcane alcohol, is used for sprinkling, massaging, and cleansing. It's also used to bless milpas (cornfields), constructions, and crosses.
In the Oaxaca Valley, people accompany deceased saints to the cemetery on November 2nd and pour the last drink over the tombs to send off the souls properly. It's an important part of all celebrations; it's given as a gift during courtship, baptisms, wakes, and patron saint festivals. Mezcal and strong drinks are shared and exchanged during tequios (voluntary and unpaid community work) and gatherings, and they are offered to the four directions, or by dipping a finger and offering these drops to the earth. Unlike beer, tepache, or chicha, mezcal is the ceremonial, communal, and adult ritual liquor in many indigenous communities in the country.
The 'trago,' as mezcal is called in Mitla, is a blessing. The rules for serving it are quite strict. Beverages that are not ceremonial or ritual are not called 'trago'; they are simply drunk: catalán, anisado, tepache, or beer. Mezcal is a ceremonial drink, a communal adult drink. With mezcal, you make offerings; with other beverages, you toast. During celebrations, it is always distributed in hierarchical order, and it cannot be refused but can be stored in bottles brought for this purpose. You drink only what is offered and at the pace it's offered, during the three or four days of the celebrations.
Types of Mezcal
- Corriente or chaparrose ferments in leather, with timbre wood bark and pulque.
- Mezcal de puntas is from the first distillation, and mezcal de colas is from the second distillation, sometimes with the addition of honey.
- Mezcal minero, from the north, was given to mine workers by the mine owners to help them endure the hard work, as part of their payment.
- Mezcal de pechuga has pieces of chicken or turkey added to it.
- Mezcal de gusano has a maguey worm added to it before bottling, and it is often consumed with worm salt, which is always found in the cantinas where it's served, as well as in the little pots in which it is sold.
This story was originally published in Mexico Desconocido.
1. [Source](https://www.mexicodesconocido.com.mx/mezcales.html)
